Fondled by an old man

ladies that helped me find a place to camp in Serbia

Im not in Kansas anymore!! You would think of an experience that was enough to make you jiggle with nerves you would have something better to say for it. Alas, entering Kosovo amid government travel warnings was largely without feature and a steady tail wind sped me along quite nicely through the rolling green countryside of the worlds latest self decleared nation. I was not sure what to expect, but I talked to a few people and they all suggested I find another way, then reading of the ill advised non essential travel I was at a cross roads (literally) to stay in Serbia with their beautiful people and way of life or head to Kosovo and see what happens. It was a police man (after buying me a bottle of water) who said 'no worries' no dangerous no dangerous and with that I headed up into the mountains and descended into Kosovo.

Serbian Lads

There was one major hold up about 3km before the boarder crossing. I was trying to spend my last Din and was swooped on by a beer baron barrel of a man and accosted until I agreed to have a beer with him and his friends. One turned into a couple turned into a night sleeping on a couch listening to the rain on the roof and the cows mooing in the shed. Cretainly needed the shower I had though as I had been 18 days on the trot without one and I was starting to look unloved (threw that in for you molly).

In Kosovo I was having lunch when a well spoken gentleman approached and we started having a chat. His opening line was 'are you lost?' Lost no, why. "because tourists dont come through here, and on a bike, no no no". That may go a long way to explaining the looks I was getting. Mostly harmless but inquisitive none the less. Apart from the occasional sign for unexploded land mines and sped limits on the open road for tanks it was similar to any other country, but for the huge military persence from a bunch of different nationals. So without fan fare I have made it to Macedonia.

Kosovo

Tank speed signs

Serbian Police (revenue gathering)

Serbia turned out to be a gem. Big hills surrounded rolling lush and furtile countryside and the people were outstanding. Almost every place I stopped along the way, for food, to camp I was offered something. Some people bought icecream, lemonade they made, beer was a common gift and someone bought me a tomato to go with the freshly picked mushrooms I was given by his friend. Unfortunately it was squished in my bag when Doris for no apparant reason toppoled over while I was taking a break. I had a personal tour guide for Belgrade who biked along side me and pointed out buildings that bore the marks of the bombings in 1999. Hotel Yugoslavia was an interesting piece. We tootled around the town and I followed up and down roads I would never have seen and he left me at the fortress in the middle of the city. I was wandering around with Doris and an older gentleman of about 70 asked if I spoke german. Nine I replied showing extream linguitic talent but yet he mosied on over and inspected the bike as many people do. I should have seen it coming but when he lent in to see the odometer on the handlebar he let his hand drop and cool as you like he copped a feel of my bicycle short wearing package. He was good, though, it was not until he sucessfully had a second go and I caught the third I even realised I was being indecently touched by a dirty old man snatching a cheeky feel. Good to know I still got it.

sleeping in a bus shelter away from the rain

Camping has come easy and with the exception of a fuel spill while cooking in my tent it is all going well. I was rudely woken up in the middle of the day by a young lady wanting to know if I wanted a drink while I was sleeping in a hey barn to get out of the sun. She had just some into work and screeched to a halt next to Doris as I woke, startled and ready to be driven by a pitchfork wielding farmer. Then we got chatting and she gave me some water. Ice cold and sweet as you like.

Jasmina,who woke me from the barn

Tomorrow I will meet Steff at the train station after she muddled up some international times (being today I had ridden to meet her) and we will explore these southern countries together for the next three weeks.